Frankincense in inexperienced magnificence formulation – ethics and exploitation

Frankincense has been in use because the daybreak of time. Nicknamed the “king of oils”, this valuable resin from the Boswellia tree has been used for millennia in non secular ceremonies, Ayurvedic and Chinese language medication, aromatherapy, perfumery, and cosmetics. Each its attribute heat, woodsy scent and highly effective anti-inflammatory properties make it the proper addition to your home made skincare formulations, particularly these focused at mature pores and skin.

Nevertheless, this ingredient isn’t with out its challenges and controversy within the magnificence world.

Over the previous couple of years, frankincense has been over-harvested as a result of elevated market demand, which has endangered the lifetime of Frankincense-producing bushes. There may be rising consciousness of the necessity for moral and sustainable practices surrounding frankincense, and options are being launched to make sure its sustainable and moral harvesting.

On this weblog submit, you’ll be taught in regards to the historical past and origins of Frankincense, its advantages in skincare, in addition to moral frankincense sourcing, so you possibly can implement probably the most accountable magnificence practices from the beginning.

Frankincense by way of time: spirituality and cosmetics

Few components have such historic significance as frankincense. This fragrant resin has an extended historical past of use, courting again so far as the earliest recorded historical past of man.

Frankincense has been used since historic occasions and has an extended historic correlation with spirituality and faith. It has been traded for over 5,000 years in areas of the Center East and North Africa and was thought-about to be price greater than gold. Allegedly, Babylonians and Assyrians burned the resin throughout non secular ceremonies, and the traditional Egyptians used it as incense in sacred rituals, notably within the sacred incense preparation kyphi (i). Frankincense was additionally a key part within the embalming course of and was additional used as an insect repellent, fragrance, and in salves.

These days, frankincense is a very talked-about ingredient in perfumery, aromatherapy and skincare and has confirmed anti-inflammatory qualities.

Frankincense – sustainability and moral points

We’ll contact in short on the sustainability points now and we urge you to carry them in your thoughts whilst you learn the checklist of among the beauty extracts and makes use of of frankincense. Later on this submit, we clarify in additional depth the moral points behind the manufacturing of frankincense.

Frankincense, often known as olibanum, is a milky white resin derived from the Boswellia sacra tree, of the Burseraceae household. There are over 550 species of Burseraceae, often known as the “incense tree household”, discovered throughout Africa and the Arabian Peninsula.

The resin of those bushes is harvested by tapping. Nevertheless, this could weaken the tree, scale back its capacity to breed and depart it uncovered to insect injury and illness. Not solely intensive tapping of the resin endanger the way forward for Boswellia bushes, however it additionally strongly impacts native communities whose livelihoods depend upon this historic approach of harvesting. Whereas restricted, artisanal ranges of harvesting frankincense permits bushes to relaxation and recuperate between tapping durations, rising demand for the resin has seen the over-exploitation of the bushes resulting in their degradation and injury.

Frankincense – valued advantages for our pores and skin

Frankincense has a novel, calming scent and has many anti-inflammatory compounds, referred to as boswellic acids (molecules produced by the Boswellia bushes) which might be of nice profit in cosmetics aimed toward mature pores and skin. Their anti-inflammatory properties, could also be helpful for photoaged pores and skin, in addition to oily and atopic pores and skin (ii, iii, iv), and for decreasing the seen indicators of scar tissue (v).

Different attention-grabbing anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds embrace alpha-pinene, alpha-thujene, and limonene. These are all monoterpenes, a household of molecules discovered within the high notes of important oils. Keep in mind that these chemical compounds and their focus fluctuate relying upon the number of the frankincense. It’s best to have the ability to acquire all this info out of your ingredient’s SDS sheet. See our submit:

Easy methods to learn security information sheets

Frankincense beauty components

Let’s discuss now in regards to the totally different beauty components derived from frankincense to be used in beauty formulation.

Frankincense hydrosol

INCI: Boswellia carterii gum water

Frankincense hydrosol is a good basis ingredient to make use of in your formulations as a substitute of water. It will enhance the consequences of your remaining product, as frankincense hydrosol incorporates highly effective anti-inflammatory advantages suited to delicate, problematic and mature pores and skin. It is usually an incredible different to frankincense important oil – it has a extra beneficial value level – and has a sweeter aroma.

We suggest you utilize frankincense hydrosol within the water part of your emulsions or water-based cleansers, or apply it immediately as a sprig mist, avoiding the eyes, to tone or refresh the pores and skin.

You’ll find out extra about hydrosols in addition to the problems surrounding their preservation in our intensive posts beneath:

The formulator’s information to hydrosols
Are you shopping for contaminated hydrosols?
5 explanation why your pure formulations want preserving
Every little thing you needed to find out about pure preservatives

Frankincense important oils

There may be little readability in regards to the numerous forms of frankincense and their important oils. Not solely is there confusion over the nomenclature, however some oils have been assigned incorrect origins (vi). On this part, we’ll point out the primary business frankincense important oils, however there are lots of others. To differentiate them, it’s essential examine their INCI title. It’s vitally vital to know the variability you’re shopping for as some are exploited virtually to the purpose of endangering the species. We check out this and different sustainability points later.

Remember that outdated or oxidised oils may cause pores and skin sensitisation, in addition to undiluted important oils. Moreover, important oils will not be advisable to be used throughout being pregnant or whereas breastfeeding. Discover out extra about important oil security and the sustainability of important oils beneath:

Podcast 6: Important oil security with Robert Tisserand
Podcast 75: How sustainable are important oils?

Boswellia sacra resin oil: This aromatic important oil is native to Somalia and is obtained from the steam distillation of the gum resin of the Boswellia Sacra tree, the first tree within the Boswellia genus. This tree produces resin when it’s about 8-10 years outdated, which is then harvested to provide frankincense important oil. This emollient and perfuming important oil has a contemporary, fruity, and spicy aroma, which blends properly with spicy and citrus oils.

Use it between 0.25-3% of your complete system in water-based or anhydrous merchandise for a stunning perfume. At all times double-check the advisable quantity together with your provider and its dermal limits, as totally different formulations require totally different quantities.

Boswellia carterii oil: Often known as olibanum, this selection additionally has a woodsy, balsamic, and fruity perfume, however is extracted from the bottom gum of the Boswellia carterii tree. Typically utilized in herbalism as a remedy for numerous wounds, it’s used as an anti-inflammatory ingredient in cosmetics. Incorporate it in emulsions or anhydrous merchandise within the cool-down part to provide a soothing impact.

Boswellia serrata oil: Often known as Indian frankincense, Boswellia serrata important oil can be utilized as a substitute for the Carterri selection, because it has related properties. With a sweeter aroma, Boswellia serrata presents soothing, calming, balancing, astringent, and anti inflammatory properties. It’s typically used as a base perfumery observe or in anti-inflammatory merchandise. Attempt combining it with different anti-inflammatory components equivalent to calendula or chamomile within the cool-down part of your emulsions or anhydrous merchandise for a soothing impact and a pleasing perfume.

Frankincense resin powder

INCI: Boswellia carterii resin extract

Final however not least, we have now frankincense resin powder, which is an off-white powder derived from Boswellia bushes. This powder presents attention-grabbing anti-inflammatory properties. It is usually typically used to fragrance cosmetics due to its attribute heat and spicy perfume.

Add frankincense powder to your lotions and serums within the heated water part, dissolving it first, or to your stable formulations equivalent to cleaning bars or therapeutic massage bars. Frankincense powder can even current exfoliating properties. It’s attention-grabbing so as to add to water-based formulations or emulsions, or to combine with different dry powders to create a stunning face cleanser that you just activate with water. We propose you strive incorporating frankincense powder into the water part of an exfoliating gel or a cream. Watch out to make use of a protecting masks when working with powders to keep away from absorbing any particles.

Listed below are some options of formulation you possibly can incorporate frankincense powder to:

Stable formulations: the best way to make a stable cleaning bar
6 stable magnificence bars excellent for newbies to make at house
Easy methods to formulate a face cleaning powder

Can frankincense ever be sustainable?

Whereas frankincense is a tremendous ingredient, its continued use can result in many sustainability points, which is why this can be very vital to analysis your components and concentrate on the environmental and social challenges they could trigger. On this part, we focus on the sustainability of frankincense and what you are able to do as a formulator to supply sustainable frankincense.

Over the previous couple of years, there was important over-harvesting of frankincense bushes, particularly of Indian and African frankincense. The harvesting course of could be very damaging to the tree, because the sap is extracted from the bushes by tapping. And whereas this course of ought to solely occur twice a yr, it occurs extra often to maintain up with international calls for, endangering the bushes and biodiversity.

That is largely attributable to market demand and managing practices, which contribute to the decline in frankincense tree populations and a complication of the availability chain (vii). This may additionally result in short-term unsustainable practices, equivalent to a scarcity of traceability and transparency, in addition to counterfeit frankincense merchandise (vii). Patrons are searching for cheaper substitutions, that are then in flip altered, whereas actual frankincense could be actually costly.

Progress on sustainable frankincense

The excellent news is that new applied sciences and approaches are consistently rising to incentivise sustainable practices and supply frankincense ethically, in addition to assist native communities. One of the vital current applied sciences can display and determine the authenticity of economic frankincense merchandise by way of a speedy mass spectrometry technique, screening frankincense samples and evaluating them to a reference pattern (viii). Planting new frankincense bushes is one other method to counter the over-harvesting of frankincense.

Sure areas and international locations are rising to the problem by creating nationwide initiatives, typically supported by worldwide public our bodies and personal corporations, to advertise sustainable, low-level artisanal harvesting, the safety of historic frankincense websites, and the replanting of Boswellia bushes. Only one instance of such intervention and consciousness elevating is the work of the Atmosphere Society of Oman (ESO) which is aimed toward defending and preserving Boswellia serrata bushes within the Sultanate of Oman. Sponsors of the ESO’s work have included UK-based Neal’s Yard Cures, which sells cosmetics infused with frankincense in addition to the neat important oil.

Nevertheless, so long as the demand retains rising, there can’t be an actual sustainable technique to harvest frankincense, as producing and consuming extra is the other of sustainability. In truth, the ESO says that the Boswellia sacra selection is listed as “Close to Threatened” on the The Worldwide Union for Conservation of Nature Purple Listing of Threatened Species.

The place does that depart you as a formulator?

Armed with the data above – and your individual additional analysis – you will want to make moral choices about whether or not to incorporate frankincense in your formulations. For those who select to harness its advantages in your formulations, you will want to make sure you know the provenance of your frankincense oils or extracts and buy solely after researching your ingredient, its provide chain and provider completely so as to perceive the place it comes from and the way it was harvested. Ask about its origins, harvesting, and extraction, in addition to its affect on native communities earlier than making a purchase order.

Prioritise unbiased and native producers of frankincense components which might be licensed natural, or are on the very least wildlife-friendly, and have information to again it up which they’ll present you. You’ll find additional info on the sustainability of your frankincense species on technical information sheets and threatened plant species lists equivalent to CITES.

Easy methods to analysis beauty components for natural skincare
7 tips about sourcing sustainable botanical components
Episode 79: The problem of sourcing pure components

For those who’re serious about launching your individual sustainable magnificence model, these assets would possibly allow you to:

15 certification schemes for sustainable magnificence
5 sustainable practices on your magnificence enterprise
Podcast 23: Beginning an moral skincare enterprise
Podcast 163: Sustainable magnificence made easier and smarter
Episode 85: The reality about wild harvested magnificence

Your path into sustainable beauty formulation

In conclusion then, frankincense is a superb anti-inflammatory ingredient, however one with appreciable moral concerns to tackle board should you choose to make use of it in your formulations.

We encourage you to embrace sustainability from the beginning of your journey into pure, natural formulation, by way of our free coaching and authorized diploma programs, in addition to inside our unique membership-only website, the Lab at Formulation Botanica.

Do share your ideas about frankincense within the feedback beneath or on our social media.

Additional studying and references

(i) Anthony Dweck, 2017. Handbook of pure components (Fourth version)
(ii) Stefano Togni, et al, 2014: Clin Cosmet Investig Dematol, 2014. A cosmeceutical formulation based mostly on boswellic acids for the remedy of erythematous eczema and psoriasis.
(iii) Han et al, 2017. Organic actions of frankincense important oil in human dermal fibroblasts.
(iv) Alessandra Pedretti, et al; 2010: Planta Med, 2010. Results of Topical Boswellic Acid on Photograph and Age-Broken Pores and skin: Medical, Biophysical, and Echographic Evaluations in a Double-Blind, Randomized, Break up-Face Research.
(v) Piergiacamo Calzavara-Pinton, et al; Dermatol Ther. 2010. Topical Boswellic acids for remedy of photoaged pores and skin.
(vi) Robert Tisserand and Rodney Younger, 2013. Important oil security (Second version).
(vii) Anjanette De Carlo et al, 2020. Ecological and Financial Sustainability of Non-Timber Forest Merchandise in Publish-Battle Restoration: A Case Research of the Frankincense (Boswellia spp.) Resin Harvesting in Somaliland (Somalia).
(vii) Brendler et al, 2018. Sustainable provide, a basis for pure product improvement: the case of Indian frankincense.
(viii) Lai et al, 2022. Identification of Industrial Frankincense Merchandise by MALDITOF Mass Spectrometry.

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Ariane is a broadcast journalist, weblog author, and content material creator for Formulation Botanica. Her areas of focus embrace magnificence, human curiosity, and humanities and tradition. Ariane has been a member of the Formulation Botanica group since 2021.